The Rolex Air-King, introduced in 1945, has seen several transformations over the years, but it was the 2016 release of reference 116900 that marked a significant departure from the model’s traditional design. What was once a simple, compact watch became a polarizing creation, steering away from the classic replica Rolex Air-King aesthetic. For many, myself included, the result leaves much to be desired. Here’s why. 
A Legacy of Flight, Now Lost in Translation
When the Air-King debuted at the close of World War II, it was part of a series of aviation-themed watches – alongside the Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, and Air-Giant. The model’s early years saw subtle revisions, most notably in 1957 with the introduction of reference 5500. For the next three decades, this version epitomized the Air-King: a modest 34mm case, a sturdy Oyster bracelet, and a non-chronometer certification, marked by the word “Precision” on the dial rather than “Superlative Chronometer Certified.”
Over the years, the Air-King experienced small but meaningful changes, including the addition of an engine-turned bezel and collaborations, such as the notorious partnership with Domino’s. In 1989, the reference 14000 brought larger Arabic numerals – 3, 6, and 9 – further evolving the model’s look. But it wasn’t until 2016 that the Air-King underwent its most radical transformation. 
The 2016 Ref. 116900: A Bold Attempt, but a Missed Opportunity
The release of the Air-King reference 116900 broke the mold. It grew to 40mm, adopted a new dial featuring green Rolex branding, and included 3-6-9 Arabic numerals separated by minute markers. The watch also took design cues from the Explorer 1, using its signature hands. Furthermore, the 116900 borrowed the fake Rolex Milgauss case, adding non-magnetic properties but also increasing the overall thickness – an aesthetic that may appeal to some but fails to align with the Air-King’s heritage.
While the Air-King’s striking appearance can be admired for its boldness, there’s a lingering question: why keep the “Air-King” name? Originally aimed at pilots, the Air-King was meant to reflect aviation’s precision and purpose. But in the 116900, the name feels disconnected from the watch’s identity. A tribute to engineering feats like the Bloodhound SSC is exciting, but it feels more fitting under a new name – perhaps “Speed-King” – which would add intrigue and make more sense. 
The Question of Spare Parts: A Cost-Cutting Measure?
Rolex’s decision to resurrect the Air-King after a two-year hiatus, especially following the introduction of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, raises eyebrows. It seems as though the company recycled parts from other models to create the 116900 without much additional investment. Consider this: the Milgauss case, Explorer 1 hands and numerals, and the Air-King name – all of these elements were readily available and could be repurposed to generate hype and boost sales.
While there’s no definitive proof of this cost-cutting strategy, the result is a watch that feels like a collection of spare parts rather than a thoughtfully designed product. At a retail price of £6,000, it’s difficult not to feel underwhelmed.
The 2022 Ref. 126900: Refining the Formula
In 2022, Rolex released a refined version of the Air-King, reference 126900, which, while still imperfect, made noticeable improvements. The new model retained the basic framework of the 116900 but introduced several updates that enhanced its appeal. Notably, the case was slimmed down and squared off, making it more comfortable on the wrist. The addition of crown guards added a sense of ruggedness, giving the replica watch a more substantial and purposeful look. 
More importantly, the numerals on the dial were updated. The 3-6-9 Arabic numerals were now filled with lume, improving their visibility in low light, and the stainless steel finish that previously made the numerals barely legible was replaced with a white hue, creating a more cohesive and balanced look.
Additionally, the “5” was changed to “05” on the dial, which added a touch of refinement. These small tweaks didn’t entirely erase the model’s original flaws, but they made it a far more compelling option than before.
A Work in Progress
The replica Rolex Air-King, particularly the 116900, remains one of the more divisive models in the brand’s collection. While its bold design offers something different, it feels disjointed – its identity lost between the heritage of aviation and the realities of modern marketing. Rolex’s decision to repurpose existing elements to create a watch that capitalizes on the Air-King name might be smart from a business standpoint, but it doesn’t resonate as deeply as other, more cohesive models in the Rolex lineup. 
The 2022 updates have improved the Rolex Air-King, but it still doesn’t fully capture the essence that its name implies. If anything, the Air-King serves as a reminder that even the most prestigious brands can stumble when they stray too far from their roots.
