The Rolex Datejust stands as a quintessential classic. This article explores our five favorite Datejust references, selected not just for their market value or collectibility, but for their historical significance and overall impact on watchmaking. Among these, we also highlight a wild card reference, considering its potential as a sleeper hit in today’s market. 

To curate this list, we consulted with Rolex expert Thomas van Straaten, author of a comprehensive book on the Datejust. His insights were invaluable in identifying the standout references throughout its extensive history. Let’s delve into our top picks.

1. Rolex Datejust Ref. 4467
Kicking off our list is the original replica Rolex Datejust, the reference 4467, introduced in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary. Notably, this watch did not even bear the model name on its dial. Initially available only in 18K yellow gold, later versions included red gold. The watch’s distinctively rounded 36mm “Bubble Back” case earned it the nickname “Ovettone,” meaning “big egg” in Italian. This oversized case was revolutionary for its time.

Equipped with the caliber A295 movement, the Datejust ref. 4467 featured a date display at 3 o’clock. Unique date discs included variations like the iconic red and black roulette. Importantly, this model lacked the Cyclops lens, which would later define the Datejust. Its elegance was enhanced by a coin-edge bezel and a Jubilee bracelet, Rolex’s first in-house designed bracelet. As a vintage piece, it remains a stunning representation of the Datejust’s aesthetic, often fetching around €20,000 or more today.

2. Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601
Fast-forward to 1959, and we encounter the Datejust ref. 1601, part of the 16xx series, which also included the ref. 1600 and ref. 1602. Featuring a fluted bezel in precious metal, the ref. 1601 is characterized by its pie-pan dial and a lowered minute track. Produced until 1977, this reference housed either the caliber 1565 or the upgraded 1575, which increased its operational frequency.

The ref. 1601 in steel with a white gold fluted bezel epitomizes the classic Datejust look. Even after 55 years, its design remains iconic and instantly recognizable.

3. Rolex Datejust Ref. 16013
The ref. 16013, introduced in 1977, brings the allure of the two-tone aesthetic to our list. Although it shares features with its four-digit predecessors, the five-digit generation marked a shift to flat dials. This model introduced the caliber 3035, which included a quickset date feature – an essential upgrade for vintage collectors. 

Among the various options, the two-tone ref. 16013 with a fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet stands out. With a wealth of dial options, including gold linen and gray tapestry, this reference exemplifies the flamboyance of the ’70s and ’80s.

4. Rolex Datejust Ref. 16220
Next up is the ref. 16220, launched in 1988. This series marked a significant update with the introduction of the caliber 3135 movement, enhancing performance and reliability. Additionally, the transition to sapphire crystals represented a notable evolution in Rolex’s design.

For this pick, we highlight the ref. 16220, featuring a cream-colored dial with Roman numeral hour markers. The combination of the engine-turned bezel and a Jubilee bracelet enhances its sophistication, making it a favorite among collectors. 

5. Rolex Datejust Ref. 16018
We present the wild card – Rolex Datejust ref. 16018. While the Day-Date often steals the spotlight when discussing full-gold Rolexes, the Datejust has its roots as a luxurious gold watch. The 16018 features an 18K yellow gold case, offering a refined alternative to the Day-Date.

This reference shares the same movement as the 16013 but in a stunning gold execution. Whether paired with a leather strap or a gold Jubilee bracelet, the ref. 16018 exudes class and style. Its price range, often under €10,000 for leather strap versions and starting around €14,000 for those with a Jubilee bracelet, makes it an attractive option for discerning collectors.