Rolex teased a groundbreaking release, hinting at defying convention and breaking molds. Expectations soared, despite Rolex’s history of incremental updates and lengthy gaps between entirely new model lines. Rolex promised a memorable day, and indeed it was, albeit perhaps not entirely for the right reasons. In 2024, fake Rolex unveiled a solid gold dive watch boasting a depth rating of 3900m. Never mind the impracticality of wearing a watch at such depths without being crushed – this watch screams status, plain and simple. Enter the new Rolex Deepsea 136668LB: big, brash, and we couldn’t wait to get our hands on it.
As noted in our coverage, the concept of a 322g, solid 18k Deepsea paired with a matching gold bracelet contradicts much of Rolex’s previous ethos. Previous releases, while sometimes extravagant with rainbow gems or ornate dials, retained an element of sensible taste. But what sense or taste is there in a 44mm-wide, 17.7mm-thick gold watch? Wearing it feels akin to strapping a shiny cinderblock to your wrist – albeit a cinderblock lined with plush velvet. The bright blue ceramic Cerachrom bezel gleams almost as brightly as the gold case. Together, the gold and blue dominate, diverting attention from the time or any yacht you may not be diving from.
A solid gold watch is one thing; Rolex has previously offered larger gold watches with the supremely comfortable Oysterflex rubber strap. No such option here; the bracelet, while comfortable, adds considerable weight. However, it does provide a sense of balance around the wrist, alleviating the top-heavy feeling often associated with gold watches on rubber or leather straps. One highlight is the Oysterlock clasp with the Glidelock toolless adjustment mechanism, precise and easy to use, adding a mechanical flair to the watch.
The dial is unmistakably blue, complementing the ceramic blue bezel and contrasting vividly with the yellow-gold case. The gold text and surrounds add warmth against the electric blue backdrop, ensuring excellent legibility. Notably, the Sea-Dweller moniker has been dropped from the name, decluttering the dial. The Ringlock compression ring system, now made of color-matched Cerachrom ceramic, contributes to a more cohesive aesthetic. Despite these updates, the dial retains typical Deepsea elements, including gold Mercedes hands and a cyclopsless date window – a detail still contentious among enthusiasts.
The caseback is crafted from RLX titanium rather than gold. While Rolex hasn’t provided an explanation, it likely serves a functional purpose, potentially enhancing durability at extreme depths. The Rolex Calibre 3235 powering the watch is impeccable, boasting 70 hours of power reserve at 28,800 vph. Equipped with a Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, and a Chronergy escapement, the movement is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, rated to -2/+2 seconds per day.
Perhaps to offset the discontinuation of the Yacht-Master II, replica Rolex introduced this ostentatious watch. While the Yacht-Master II signaled an affinity for luxury without owning a boat, the Deepsea 136668LB amplifies that sentiment to new heights. It may, however, have ventured into overkill territory.